Insider's Guide: Cape Town

Words Emma Jordan

Growing up in sexy Sandton I never once envisaged making the move down south to laid-back Cape Town. It was never an ambition to pack up sticks, swap the fast, ferocious lifestyle of Jozi and set up shop against the Pierneef-like landscape of the Cape. But fate you cannot dictate, and two years ago I found myself dealing with estate agents who wanted to know if I hankered after an apartment in Vredehoek, Tamboerskloof, Higgovale, Bantry Bay or de Waterkant.

Who knew a city so small could be divided into so many sub-sections each with its own character and identity? But then again there is the Cape Town clique cliché.

For my first six months I would often sit under a starry sky on the roof above Royale, be caressed by a soft summer breeze and hear a myriad of theories about how Cape Town’s geographic divisions dictate her social separations. “Ja,” Simon would mutter, “It’s because you have to drive around the mountain from Camps Bay that it’s rare to see locals from that side mingle with locals from this side.” ‘This side’ referring to anything from Kloof Nek down to the sea. A whopping ten-minute drive.
Of course it’s different when you’re a voyeur. These subtle divides are lost when you have only two days or two weeks to unwind and leave behind Jozi’s city stresses.

The first thing to do is forget everything you know about driving. We in Cape Town, like to take things easy and this includes mosying along gasping at the natural beauty – no matter how many times we’ve seen it before. Insist on a car rental with air-conditioning, or better still, hire a scooter from Eurojet (021 424-4131; www.eurojet.co.za) on Buitengracht street. They’re cheap and nifty and will ensure you always find parking – at the beach, on the Camps Bay strip, at the Neighbourgoods
market in Woodstock, even Long Street.

Ah yes, the beach. The sparkling azure of the Atlantic and the fine white sand of our forever beaches seduce national and international visitors time and time again. The beauty of leaving work at 4pm on a summer’s day and spending the last three hours of sunshine near the ocean is what consistently draws tourists into the resident fold.
Where you ‘beach’ easily says as much about you as what car you drive. Clifton, with her wind-protected bay, is always a winner. First and Fourth Beaches are for families, Second is for posing and don’t attempt Third unless, as a friend puts it, “You look great in a Speedo and are built like a Men’s Health coverboy”. Glen Beach is best for surfing, Camps Bay is good for dog walking and if you’re really above all the social dos and don’ts head to Bali Beach in Bakoven. It’s secluded, beautiful and, until now, known by only a few.

COCKTAILS

After a day on the sand, it’s time for cocktails. Wafu (above Wakame, cnr Surrey Place and Beach Road, Mouille Point; 021 433-2377) recently reopened after the fire tragedy earlier in the year, the Sunset Deck at the Peninsula Hotel (313 Beach Rd, Seapoint; 021 430-7777; www.peninsula.co.za) and Karma Lounge in Camps Bay (above CTFM; 021 438-7773; www.karmalounge.co.za) are also new options with great views. Watch out for live bands at Karma Lounge – last year Goldfish had a recurring Sunday evening set. And not to be missed on a summer Sunday evening is Café Caprice (37 Victoria Road, Camps Bay; www.cafecaprice.co.za), where the who’s who like to schmooze as the sun sets.

EAT

When you require more sustenance than a few strawberry daiquiris, there are always the Cape Town classics – La Perla (Beach Road, Seapoint; 021 439-9538) for fabulous sunsets and fail-safe steaks; Anatoli (24 Napier Street; 021 419-2501; www.anatoli.co.za) for great atmosphere and the best meze in town, Fork (84 Long Street; 021 424-6334) for delicious tapas, Tank (021 419-0007) in the Cape Quarter for fresh sushi and Haiku (33 Church Street; 021 424-7000; www.bukhara.com/haiku)
for dressed-up Japanese. The most talked about opening of the last few months is The Round House on the foot of Lion’s Head overlooking Camps Bay (Kloof Road; 021 438-4347; www.theroundhouserestaurant.com). Eclectically kitted out, this old hunting lodge has French-inspired food, great service and a rolling lawn, perfect for picnics.

PARTY

When it comes to dancing, the beautiful people flock to Jade (above Manos; 021 439-4108) in Greenpoint, Bambu (www.bambu.co.za) on Somerset Road near de Waterkant, Asoka (www.asokabar.co.za) on Kloof Street and Bang Bang Club (021 426-2011; www.thebangbangclub.co.za) on Loop Street. Shaun Duvet, owner of Bang Bang recently returned from DJing in Ibiza and at Ministry of Sound in London, so expect appropriately deep beats. For a slightly more underground feel, there’s Fiction (www.fictionbar.com) on Long Street playing different styles of music each night. For live music of a more instrumental type, head east through town to Harrington Street. Opened and run by the boys that do the retro burger joint Royale (273 Long Street; 021 422-4536) and friendly Long Street Neighbourhood bar (169 Long Street), The Assembly (084 555-2048; www.theassembly.co.za) is currently the best music venue in Cape Town, showcasing great South African bands like The Dirty Skirts, Taxi Violence, 340ml and Them Tornados among many others. When it’s time to lay your head and you’re staying for more than a week, consider a short-term rental. As soon as you know which area you want to stay in, take a morning and get Googling (Try www.capestay.co.za).

STAY

If a hotel is more your thing, check out the new boutique hotel in the Waterfront, The Dock House (021 421-9334) – there are only five rooms and a suite so you’d better be quick. The Cape Grace (021 410-7100) is in the process of a complete refurbishment and The Mount Nelson (021 483-1000) will always be Cape Town’s presiding old lady. Even if you’re not staying at the Nellie, be sure to pop in for tea or a drink at The Planet Bar – legend has it when she’s in town, Kate Moss loves this watering hole.

Saturday mornings are all about Woodstock’s Neighbourgoods Market (021 462-6361) at the Old Biscuit Mill. And now that there’s a dedicated clothing section, you’ll not only pick up amazing organic eat treats and cute Christmas gifts, but you can also indulge in some quirky Cape Town style. Look out for the animal-friendly funky shoes by g-mo footwear (www.g-mo.co.za), quality hand-made jewellery by Chloe Essery at Blackbird jewellery (082 495 0090) and beautiful flowing dress designs by Alexandra Hojer. Talking of clothes, don’t leave the Mother City without finding time to squeeze in a studio visit to Missibaba (021 461-1083; www.missibaba.com), Chloe Townsend’s leather label that’s turning heads the world over. Pick up one of her chic beach bags, made from block printed fabrics that are part of Twine, her sideline project.

WINELANDS

Take a trip into the winelands for lunch at Le Franschhoek (021 876-8900) or Le Quartier Francais (021 876-2151) and pick up a couple of cases of Graham Beck Fizz or Villiera’s organic bubbly on the way home. If you’ve never been to Reubens (021 876-3772; www.reubens.co.za) in Franschhoek or Tokara (021 808-5959; www.tokararestaurant.co.za) try out these equally impressive eateries. Or try Minki van der Westhuizen’s new restaurant in Stellenbosch, Library (De Wet Centre, Stellenbosch; 021 887-7073). And while you’re there, it would be sinful to pass up the opportunity to view the Rodin Collection (including the famous Kiss and The Thinker) on display at the Rupert Museum (Stellentia Avenue, Stellenbosch; 021 888-3344).
And no trip down south is complete without a wander along the coast to Harbour House (021 788-4133, www.harbourhouse.co.za) in Kalk Bay for freshly caught fish. Everything at this elegant eatery – from service to food to views – is always impeccable. And if you’re staying in this area, follow the fresh smell of coffee to Olympia Café (021 788-6396) for a heavenly morning treat.
No matter if you’re coming for a day, a week or a month, it’s virtually impossible not to fall in love with Cape Town. She’ll seduce you at every turn. Tell me again why you live in Jozi? Details: Cape Town Tourism, 021 487-6800

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Leave Your Comment Insider's Guide: Cape Town Posted on: 29/09/2008 Posted By Danie Viljoen on 23/03/2009 I need some pricing on a full page and half page advert.   Name:  Email:  Comment: